Estonia 2010

Estonia borders Russia on the west, Latvia on the south, the Baltic Sea on the West and North. Tallinn, population 400,000 is the capital. Tallinn is 85k South, and across the Baltic Sea, from Helsinki, Finland.

The same day (June 18, 1940) France fell to Germany, Estonia fell to the USSR. In less than 60 days, Estonia's former government leaders were in captivity in Russia and Estonia was a Soviet republic. In that same period, 90% of private companies were nationalized and large private landholdings were expropriated and given to peasants. Russian became the language taught in schools. One year later, just one week before the German invasion, 10,000 Estonians were dragged from their homes on a single day and deported to labor camps in Siberia. Only a few hundred would ever see Estonia again, and not until after Stalin's death in 1953.

The USSR occupiers of Estonia were unprepared for the 1941 invasion of the Germans. Ironically, the Germans were seen as liberators in the three Baltic states. By the end of the war 10% of the one million Estonians had fled abroad (70,000 to Sweden, 30,000 to Germany), half the livestock had been destroyed as had all the major factories. In 1944 German troops retreated from Tallinn and a provisional Estonian government was formed. It was dissolved five days later, when the Russians started their re-invasion.

For 45 years, from 1944 until 1989, the Soviets controlled and isolated Estonia; Westerners were not permitted entry into Estonia until 1960. By 1949, 500 collectives were established; the number rose to 3,000 in several months. In March 1949, 22,000 Estonians were taken to Siberia. After decades of oppression, 250,00 people, a quarter of the adult population of Estonia, packed a festival ground in Tallinn in 1988 and demanded "independence." In 1989, two million citizens of all three Baltic States linked hands in a human chain stretching 375 miles from Tallinn to Vilnius to protest Soviet rule. In 1991 Estonia declared its re-establishment of independence; by then, 40% of its population were Russians who had been encouraged to settle there during the Soviet era. Estonia joined the EU in 2004.

On the Road Again. The Cayenne locked and loaded, we headed out of Riga, Latvia, and headed due north to Tallinn, Estonia. As we could have predicted after previously crossing three Eastern European borders on this trip, The Latvia/Estonia border was a non-event. Apparently, neither country cares who or what comes and goes across its borders. What a national luxury.

We picked what we thought was the coastal route to Tallinn - - straight up the Baltic coast of Estonia. However, except for our short detour to the coast, we never saw the coast. The scenery along the road was exactly the same as in Lithuania and Latvia: farms, forests, farms, village, farms, forests, farms, village, etc. on flat terrain. (The highest "mountain" in the Baltics is barely 300 meters.)

Parnu, Estonia.

We left the main highway at Parnu, Estonia, a medium-sized town on the Baltic Coast. Having read that Parnu is "Estonia's Summer Capital" because one in four Estonians visit the town at least once during the summer holiday season, we decided to take a look at Estonians on a beach holiday. We also wanted to see the Baltic Sea at least once while in the Baltics.

Parnu's beach is 7k long and twice as wide as our Santa Monica beach. We knew it was not Santa Monica, however, because there was ample parking. We arrived at low tide; the sand was so firm that walking in the sand left no footprints. Baby strollers could be and were being pushed on the firm beach. Estonian bodies in all sizes and ages were everywhere.

The beach goers seemed to share one goal: to get tan, tan, tan. Many shades of beige, tan, and brown reflected Estonians' relative success in reaching the goal. They say people look better with a tan. What do you think?

Tallinn, Estonia.

We checked into the Hotel Telegraaf located in Tallinn's Old Town. Love this place: the breakfast buffet includes Prosecco (Italian "Champagne") and daily news summaries in 12 different languages. The one page July 22 summary labeled "Good Morning USA" includes the news that Lindsay Lohan's 90 day jail term has been "slashed" to 14 days. Champagne and tabloids - - this is my kind of hotel.

Unlike the cities we have previously visited on this trip, Tallinn is on the Baltic and has a major ferry/cruise ship port. Consequently, boatloads of tourists arrive daily to visit Old Town - - which proudly proclaims itself to be the finest preserved City in the Baltics. Old Town is ready for them with: greeters outside each restaurant or sidewalk cafe waving a menu and inviting you inside; people in the squares handing out leaflets advertising one or another business; people in medieval costume wandering around hoping you will pay to take their picture; musicians playing music next to a hat filled with coins (hint, hint); and so on. We feel (for the first time) like we are in Disneyland.

Shopping.

There is no shortage of souvenir shops in Old Town. Amber, linens, Russian dolls, knitwear, wood kitchen utensils, leather goods, glass, Soviet/Nazi medals etc., and ceramics are on display everywhere.

Town Hall Square.

This former medieval marketplace has tried to recreate itself with thematic restaurants and costumed servers. At the corner of Town Hall Square is one of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe. Its doors opened in 1422. It no longer carries powdered unicorn horn, ground deer penis, or black cat urine, but does offer plenty of other remedies and cures.

Next door we bought a toy car for our 2 1/2 year old grandson. It is a little drab green tank built by the Soviets in the 1950's (during the occupation of Estonia), with a gun turret, a red star on the side, and 4 sets of wheels (8 total). He'll love the 8 wheels; however, his parents may object to the symbolism.

We passed on the $5,000 Russian General's highly decorated jacket and hat.

Dining.

Karl Friedrich.

This restaurant has an olde-worlde interior and a first class menu. It is on the third floor of a grand building overlooking Old Town's Town Hall square. The first photo below was taken from our table.

Restaurant Tchaikovsky in the Terrace of the Hotel Telegraaf.

We were told this restaurant would present "a symphony of Russian cuisine" in "an atmosphere to be treasured." The second photo below is of the restaurant's atmosphere - -and we did treasure it. Three musicians played classical music while we dined. Sigh.

McDonalds.

The third photo below is for those of you who wondered what a McDonalds combo menu would look like if written in Estonian. Wonder no more.

Museum of Occupations.

This contemporary concrete and glass building contains videos and artifacts chronicling the 1939-1991 decades of oppression under both the Nazis (during World War II) and the Soviets (just before and right after WWII). When the museum opened in 2003, the Prime Minister cut barbed wire instead of a ribbon. A red star and a swastika are shown side by side because the Estonians regard the Russians and Germans as equally guilty. The line of small cases into which thousands of Estonians packed belongings for the Siberian exile was more than moving.

Kadriorg/Kadrioru Palace/Museum.

This palace was founded by the Russian Emperor Peter the Great in 1718. It was named in honor of his wife Catherine I (Catharinenthal in German). Tallinn was a fashionable holiday resort in the early part of the 19th century and was often visited by Nicholas I and his family. The Palace was the residence of the Head of State of the Estonian Republic in the 1930's, a high ranking German general during World War II, and was an art museum beginning in 1946. Since the summer of 2000 the Kadriorg Palace has housed one of the branches of the Art Museum of Estonia. The less grand home of Estonia's current President is minutes away.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

This magnificent cupola-crowned structure was commissioned in the late 1800's by Czar Alexander III to honor Alexander Nevsky who conquered much of Estonia in the 13th century. Although some Estonians wanted to demolish this Russian Orthodox church after independence, the government restored it instead.

From a nearby viewpoint the colorful city spreads out below.

Latvia 2010

Latvia is the middle of the three Baltic countries lined up North to South along the Red Sea. It is bordered on the North by Estonia; on the West by the 307 miles along the Baltic Sea; on the South by Lithuania; and on the East by Russia and Belarus.

Germany (Hitler) and the Soviet Union (Stalin) signed a secret treaty in 1939 whereby Latvia (and the other Baltic States) was assigned to Germany. The Red Army occupied Latvia in 1940 and quickly controlled Latvian politics, policies, and economics. Latvia became a republic of the USSR. The next year, 30-35,000 Latvians were murdered or deported (mainly to Siberia). In 1941, when the Germans marched into Latvia after defeating the USSR, they were regarded as liberators. Many turned a blind eye when Jews accused by Nazis of having supported the Soviets, were confined in concentration camps all over the Baltics. Tens of thousands of Latvian (and other European Jews) were killed during the several years of the Nazi occupation of Latvia.

In 1944, the Germans were beginning to retreat and the Red Army again advanced into Latvia. The Baltic States were unable to resist the Soviet forces and were again incorporated into the Soviet Union. The Soviets were not welcomed; the Latvians formed resistance groups and fighting ensued. Between 1945 and 1949, approximately 150,000 Latvians were killed or deported. Many Latvians fled to the West. From the end of World War II until its independence in 1991, Latvia was part of the Soviet Union (which became somewhat less repressive after Stalin died in 1953).

We crossed the Lithuania/Latvia border on July 19, 2010 in the mid-afternoon. There were no border guards, there was no passport control, and not one car (except ours) even slowed down to make the border crossing.

Just after crossing into Latvia, we spotted a tall, brick chimney on an abandoned structure in the country, on which three storks had built an enormous nest. Storks are common in Latvia; around 5% of the world's white storks migrate from their winter homes in Africa and nest here between April and August. I'm told the farmers believe storks bring good luck.

Rundale Palace/Rundales Pils.

First stop in Latvia was. Rundale Palace, the grand and immense summer hideaway (construction completed in 1735/ rococo furnishings in the 138-rooms by 1760) in the Latvian countryside designed by the architect of St. Petersburg's Winter Palace. The site was selected and owned by (Tsar Peter I's niece and later Empress) Anna's "friend," a German Duke. Most of the furnishings were destroyed in World War I and the palace was given to Catherine the Great's "friend." It remained in private hands until 1920; restoration began in 1972 when the palace became a Museum. About one-third of the palace has been faithfully and lavishly restored and is open to the public. The interiors are fabulous and include basketball court-sized ballrooms, crystal chandeliers, ceiling paintings and intricate stucco moulding. Behind the palace is an immense, formal baroque garden. Wow, wow, wow.

Riga, Latvia.

Of the three Baltic capitals, Riga is the largest. Its compact, art nouveau Old Town is well restored and contains many historic churches and museums. It also contains many one-way and blocked streets, making it a challenge to find our Old Town hotel, the Grand Palace Hotel.

We circled Old Town three times before we finally made it to our hotel. Our route into Old Town was by a castle on the river, between two bridges. The first time we overshot the tiny street, turned just after Riga Castle and found ourselves in one way traffic heading across the bridge away from Old Town. We reversed course when we could and took a street beyond the one way street that got us in trouble initially. However, this street was barricaded and under the watchful eye of several policemen. Since our police escort in Vilnius worked so well, we decided to see if we could get lucky again and asked for directions. As we did so, a motorcade of several cars shot by us; a white Mercedes surrounded by two police cars with lights flashing and sirens blaring. Turns out it was the President of Latvia who lives in Riga Castle. So...the only person getting a police escort was the President; not us. Once we regained the attention of the policeman by our car, he directed us to circle Old Town and take another run at our street. We obediently did so and this time exited too early into Old Town. By doing so we found ourselves in a maze of narrow, cobblestone streets just barely the width of our car. We tried to look apologetic as we crept by. When we stopped for directions in front of a hotel (not ours!), we were essentially told to circle again and get it right. Finally, we hit the mark and exited on the correct street. We quickly found the hotel and fell into the arms of the doorman, babbling about the strain of finding his hotel.

We worked up quite an appetite during our Battle With Old Town. Thus, we decided to eat at Vincents, a high end restaurant where George Bush Jr. dined when visiting Latvia. (If it's good enough for George and Laura.....) The guide book said it served "nouvelle-ish cuisine." Mike ordered acorn fed ham on cantaloup and BBQ shrimp; I ordered fois gras-stuffed ravioli with chanterelle mushrooms, and slow cooked pork belly. If there was a richer/heavier combination on the menu, I didn't see it. We each opted for a really light breakfast the next morning.

Tuesday, July 20, was a car-free day. We slept in, Mike had a massage (the masseuse told him he had tension in his feet!!), and we then set out on foot to explore Riga's Old Town. One of us was walking on tension-free feet.

The Museum of the Occupation.

This museum shows what happened to Latvia, its land and people under two occupying totalitarian regimes from 1940 to 1991: the first Soviet occupation (1940-1941); the Natzi Germany occupation (1941-1945) and the second Soviet occupation (1945-1991). Historical documents, artifacts and pictures show not only the oppression and persecution of the occupying government, but also the defiance and resistance of the Latvians.

The Museum of Latvia's Jews.

To find this museum it was necessary to open and study our Old Town map. While doing so, a man passing by asked if we needed help (are we that pathetic looking?). When we told him where we wanted to go he disclosed that 17 members of his family died in the Riga ghetto (see below). He was on a flight from Riga to the U.S. in 1991 when he learned of Latvia's independence. He has lived in Santa Monica CA (where he teaches) since 1991 but keeps an apartment in Riga. We told him we keep a beach cottage in New Zealand. Nice man. The conversation ended in a draw.

This small, third floor museum in an old building housing the Jewish community's cultural center just outside of Old Town was founded in 1989. It is committed to discover the names and identities of all Latvian Jews and their fates during the Holocaust and Soviet repression through the end of World War II. Through pictures, news accounts, and personal accounts (collected primarily by Holocaust survivors), it details the growing discrimination against Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the destruction of synagogues in Riga and elsewhere in 1941 and the suffering imposed by both the Nazis and the Soviets. Most of Riga's Jews were herded into ghettos then taken to forests outside of town and shot. 26,000 Latvian Jews were taken from the Riga ghetto and murdered in just 10 days in Nov/Dec 1941. Soon thereafter, thousands of German and other European Jews were deported to Riga in 1941-1942 to repopulate the ghetto. At 200 "killing sites" in Latvia, 70,000 Jews were killed during World War II. This history is as compelling as it is moving. Words fail.

St. Peter's Cathedral.

This UNESCO World Heritage monument had, for some time, the highest spire in Europe. Tragically, the church was destroyed in World War II; reconstruction was completed in 1973. The tower, the City's symbol, is 123+ meters high. We took a lift to the top for a panoramic view of the city from the observation platform.

Riga Dome [Lutheran] Cathedral.

This is the biggest cathedral in the Baltics. In true Lutheran style (my family's religion), we were charged $5 to enter and take a look at the somewhat austere interior.

Three Brothers.

The oldest of the three houses known collectively as "Three Brothers," dates to the early 1400's. It is the oldest domestic building in Riga.

The Cat House.

This art nouveau building has arched feline forms topping its turrets.

In the middle of the day we began to think: lunch. There is no shortage of sidewalk cafes in Riga's Old Town but they seemed too crowded, too sunny, etc etc. Then...suddenly...the Golden Arches magnet down the street drew us in. Another cheeseburger in paradise. This time I skipped the fries. Don't judge.

We stepped it up for dinner. We wined and dined on the fifth floor terrace of Gutenberg's restaurant; the Dome Church was just across the plaza. The light on the spire was dazzling as the sun set behind us. We both ordered fries with dinner (but we called them pommes frites).

Lithuania 2010

Lithuania is the southernmost of the three Baltic States. It is South of Latvia, West of Belarus, and North of Poland. Its Western border is on the Baltic Sea. Although once independent, by the end of the 18th Century, most of Lithuania was controlled by Russia. When Russia collapsed in World War I, the Lithuanians re-established their independence. In 1940, however, the country was effectively annexed by the USSR. Germans occupied Lithuania from 1941 to 1944 and wiped out Lithuania's Jewish population. The Soviets returned in 1944; their Stalinist hard line was not relaxed until the late 1980's. After the death of Stalin, demands for Lithuanian independence grew. Lithuania declared its independence from the USSR in 1990 and in 1991 the world finally recognized Lithuanian independence. Lithuania became the first formerly Russian State to re-establish its independence from the Soviets.

Up early in Warsaw, Poland, to start the long drive to the Baltics (Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia) across the Lithuanian border to Kaunas. It becomes quickly apparent that Mike and I have quite different priorities this morning: I am bending my mind around twisted route directions just to get out of town, and Mike is preoccupied with figuring out how to get his iPod to work in the new car. We each feel the other should be more interested in our respective topics.

We both notice as we leave Poland on another hot day (mid 80's to low 90's) that more than a few Polish men walk around without shirts. Whether farming, trucking, or shopping, the men seem to think that a bulging bare belly (their most common feature) is warranted by the heat. It is clear that no one works out.

The homes by the road tend to be small concrete boxes with a corigated metal roof. The concrete is usually unpainted and grey. When paint is used, it comes in eye popping shades of lime green, lemon yellow, mustard, or pumpkin with a tangerine colored roof. (I wrote this just before lunch - my word choices suggest that hunger has set in.)

OK, I'm just going to say it. We have eaten at McDonalds for two straight days counting today. There is something reassuring about a couple of roadside golden arches in a country where pickled pigs ears is a national favorite. Besides, I order the small fries.

We reach the Poland/Lithuania border at 2pm. It's 89 degrees outside. On our side there are no lines, no trucks, few cars, and no passport control. We searched and found only one uniformed person at the border; when we asked for a passport stamp he said no. It was clear that no discussion or explanation would follow. On the side exiting Lithuania there were long lines of trucks creeping toward Poland.

Like Poland, the Lithuanian countryside is agricultural and relatively flat. Unlike Poland, the roads are clear and uncrowded. We saw a few stork nests on the top of tall, concrete poles and dozens of storks inspecting newly plowed fields for insects. The stork population in the Baltics, where storks are appreciated as symbols of good fortune, is on the rise due to the comparatively low use of pesticides in agriculture. Meanwhile, the stork population in Western Europe is declining.

Kaunas, Lithuania. At 4pm (we lost an hour moving East into a new time zone) we finally reached Kaunas, population 420,000 and the third largest city in the Baltic States. After getting deep into the city we stopped and asked a taxi driver for directions. In my defense as navigator, the hotel is in Old Town and faces a pedestrian walkway so we couldn't have driven to the front door. When we asked the taxi driver for the location of our hotel he simply pointed to it; it was 50 meters from where we stopped. What's that you say? Nice job navigating? Well thanks.

Kaunas has a couple of unique art collections that we wanted to see: The Devil Museum and the M. K. Ciurlionis Art Museum. We headed to the Devil Museum first (wouldn't you?).

The Devil Museum. Artist Antanas Zmuidzinavicius (1876-1976) collected demonic folk art, particularly fierce horned masks worn by Lithuanian farmers to drive winter away. Others donated devil-related craft objects from all over the world to the point where the collection fills 3 floors of the museum. Hitler and Stalin are depicted as devils, as are pitchfork wielding garden gnomes.

The M.K. Ciurlionis Museum. Ciurlionis is considered Lithuania's greatest artist. He died at age 36 in 1911. He paints landscapes in hazy greens, yellows, and blues.

After our satisfying dose of culture, we headed for a look around Old Town and found it to be quite the happening place this Saturday night. Kids dressed in the colors of the yellow/green/orange Lithuanian flag; bachelorette parties of the sort usually found in Las Vegas (2 groups), weddings, christenings, and lots of strolling.

We decided to dine at our hotel's sidewalk restaurant. I tasted and enjoyed the Lithuanian version of sparkling wine which was served in a champagne saucer. Haven't seen champagne served in a saucer for 30 years - at least. The mood in the restaurant was lively. Must have gotten to Mike. As we left the restaurant he told a distinguished African-American man in traditional, African print shirt and pants "I like your outfit." What....was that my husband making an ambiguous (serious? sarcastic?) and totally out of character wardrobe comment to a man? To avoid abject humiliation, I engaged the man in conversation about travel etc. long enough to learn he is a diplomat from the Congo on official business. Oh great. Did Mike really need to pick him? Fortunately, we didn't see the man at breakfast the next morning and we dined somewhere else the next night. Maybe we'll get out of Kaunas without being barred for life from travel to the Congo.

Vilnius, Lithuania

We decide to spend Sunday, July 18 in Vilnius, the capitol, population 600,000. It is an easy one hour drive south/east from Kaunas where we'll stay another night unless Congolese security throw us out of our room. Old Town has winding, narrow streets, old churches, and wonderful Baroque architecture. In particular, the pinnacle, red brick towers of St Anne's Church make it one of the country's most outstanding Gothic buildings.

Museum of Genocide Victims.

Our first stop in Vilnius was at an unadorned grey, concrete building that is the former site of the Russian KGB headquarters for nearly 50 years as the Soviets implemented communist ideology, while deporting, imprisoning, and executing Lithuanian citizens of all ages. The building was taken over by the KGB during the first Soviet occupation of Lithuania in 1941. The following year, it served as the headquarters of the German Gestapo when the Nazis replaced the Soviets in occupied Lithuania. The building (and Lithuania) reverted to the Soviets in 1944. The museum details and documents Lithuania's loss of independence, brutal reprisals at the hands of the Soviets, and the bitter fight to regain independence. The Soviets were finally forced to move out of Lithuania in 1991. Until then, the museum building served as a prison, eavesdropping center, interrogation site, and execution chamber. The losses of Lithuanian clergy, farmers, resistance fighters, and ordinary families in the years of occupation are chilling and heartbreaking.

The Gate of Dawn.

Inside this sole survivor of the City's nine original gates, is a chapel built by the monks of St Theresa's Church to house the most revered of the City's sacred images: Madonna of the Gate of Dawn. The painting of a crowned Madonna without the Child is visible through arched windows above the gate; most locals cross themselves as they pass under the gate (and thus under the Madonna). We climbed the 38 steps in a narrow staircase leading to the chamber where the Madonna is kept. Except for her face and hands, she is covered in silver clothing. Pope John Paul II said Rosary here in 1993. As we left the Gate we looked back and noticed a nun standing alone below the Madonna in a pathway that is usually crowded with tourists and locals.

Hill of Crosses.

We left Kaunas on July 19 and drove north to the Latvian border and on to Riga. Just off the main road to Riga, Latvia, we visited the Hill of Crosses. Reportedly the hill became a means to remember the fallen in the rebellions of the mid-1800's. Locals secretly planted crosses on this hill in the remote countryside because the Tsarists would not have tolerated an open display of national sentiment. More crosses were added in the 1950's in memory of those who died or were deported to Siberia by the Soviet occupiers. The Soviets bulldozed the site repeatedly in the 1960's but each time the locals replanted crosses. Pope John Paul II visited the site in 1993, propelling it into the major leagues of pilgrimage destinations. The Pope said mass to 100,000 at the site and presented a cross which stands alone at the foot of the hill. Its inscription reads: "Thank you Lithuanians for this Hill of Crosses, which testifies to the nations of Europe and the whole world the faith of the people of this land."

An estimated 200,000 crosses have been placed on the hill. Every inch of the hill is covered with crosses of every size and description. Tiny crosses are hung on larger crosses which are hung on larger crosses and so on. Naturally, souvenir shops sell crosses in all price ranges. We bought a tiny cross and added ours to the Hill.

Soon after leaving the Hill we continued on our northbound route and crossed the border into Latvia.